The Journey Begins

Day FOURTEENTH

Date - Saturday, 14 April 2012

0840 hrs

Just had my usual breakfast sitting with a panel of international tourist. The Frenchies, Philippinos, Chinese (they are everywhere), and the Singaporeans lah. I must remember to go easy on the coffee. As i didn't have much to do today, i am really looking forward to the concert by Dr Ritchner who plays the cello for free every Saturday to raise funds for his free hospital here in Siem Reap. I remember the last time i heard him played, i cried to bits!! His passion and dedication for over 35 years fighting for the Cambodian children had gained interest and attention of the Swiss government who has been the biggest sponsor for the Kanta Bopha hospital. The most heart breaking about the concert is the video showing the plight of the Cambodians since the reign of the Khmer Rouge. But until then, i thnk i am going to cycle around as far away from Siem Reap as i could but towards the opposite direction of Angkor Wat.

Anyway the reason i had nothing much to do is because Mavis, who owns the soup kitchen has left town and the kitchen itself is closed for a week for the Khmer New Year and most of the diners would be back at their kampongs. And the funny CONCert Cambodia volunteer organization is not as enthusiastic as i thought they would be. Oh brother, even doing charity is hard to do. What is happening to this world. Then don't lah be so aggressive with the volunteer ads. If they want to target charities from the rich, no need to beat about the bush and see if the rich response. So westernized. Urgh. I just teach yoga lah.

So there, been hanging out a lot with Melor. Thank goodness. Been writing my workshop notes for Phnom Penh. And since money is running out due to my unforseen no salary from work in KL (didn't expect this, which has sort of ruined my trip), not much sale from garage sale to help me, not enough sponsorship, and so forth, i will be aborting this trip and come back to KL after Saigon, get my cat and come back to Phnom Penh. So i decided, i am gonna squeezeeeeeee to get to Ho Chi Minh City and come back. Don't think my other dream of seeing HaLong Bay is gonna happen, though. Oh well, another time maybe.. And besides my being sick lately is not helping with the cost... Haha.. Its sad but i think many would want me safe.

Day THIRTEENTH

Date - Friday, 13 April 2012

0610 hrs

Its friday the 13th. Tomorrow is the start of the Khmer holiday. Not necessarily I know what to do, though. The hotel reception, Sovann Coco, who has just became my facebook friend, said that there is no party here. I asked if there would be dancing and he said that "Yes, you dance with the Pagoda.". Everyone laughed! He asked what my plans are for today and I said, "2 fried eggs, 2 toasts, 2 bacon, and 1 coffee.". And off he went and cooked all that for me.

Actually my plans for today is to cycle off to Bayon, the furthest temple north of Siem Reap. Its the one with the big faces of Buddha. The weather looks like its gonna be beautiful.

Exactly at 0700 hrs, i set off on by bike to Bayon. A minute down the road, "thump thump phssss..". Damn, a flat tyre!! Fortunately i was not far from the bicycle shop and managed to turn back and was suggested to change bikes. After that fix, i was off. The road seems a little more busy than usual and my enthusiasm went slowly downhill when i notice buses after buses of tourist with the all too familiar flag going towards the same direction. I immediately changed course and took the path off the beaten track and 20 minutes later found myself back in Ta Phrom village. I saw this lonely bull, which had a chain around its neck and i decided to stop and have my kodak moment. As i held up my iPad towards the direction of this beautiful creature against the scenic cambodian plains, to my horror, a huge yellow hot air balloon rose from the horizon!! An absolutely soresight among nature's wonder. Off i go to Bayon. By this time, i saw like the entire chinese population was in Bayon. Only 15 minutes of my kodak moments with King Jayavarman VII, the annoying crowd drive me off the temple.

In my ride back, i couldn't help but noticed military men with their M-16s all over the city. Well, it is the new year. The authorities do want the city safe. "su sdaey, au kun and au kun srey" could be heard everywhere. Kind of remind me of the Thais during this lull period, on whatever the matter is, for sure one will hear, "mai ping rai.", which means, no worries.

0915 hrs - Arrive back at the hotel. The ride was such a hot and sweaty one due to the blinding heat. Went straight to my room, had a quick wash up and zzzzz....

After a cool 2 hours snooze, i got up and prepared for lunch. I was so gung ho about having the beef rice at the roadside but to my despair, it was closed for the new year. Hmm, had to cycle to Pub Street for my meal and it was actually as cheap and as worth it as any local foodstall lah. Just a short cycle back and i was sweating like a pig! I just had to catch my breath at the lobby, so i thought i'd have a bit of a rest and write my workshop notes. A minute later, the reception brought cold towels, ice water coffee and fruits. Wow. And then another coffee, and another and another.

After an hour, i got up to my room and planned to have a snooze but of course, after all that coffee? Impossible. Started to update my facebook and edited my photos. Switched on the tele and watched Nanny Diaries. At 5.15 pm, headed down to the posh Victoria Angkor for the unbelievable 50% off all drinks and free flow of 5-star canapes. Cheapskate lah we all... Had a wonderful heart 2 heart talk with Melor. Hanging out with her then was like hanging out with Aunt Agony with all my personal issues dropped on her like Hiroshima. However unlike the Japanese, she took the bomb and disarmed it, turned it around and showed me my wake up call. Arrrgghh....

After a couple of glasses of wine, we thought the night needed a cool down and headed to Blue Pumpkin for an ice cream to seal the day.

2100 hrs i arrived back in my room, had a shower and just in time to catch Harry Potter and The Sorcerer's Stone, chatted with my Wizard and that took me here at 2300 hrs. Time for bed... Zzzz...

Day TWELVE

Date - Thursday, 12 April 2012

2010 hrs

0420 hrs - Set off to Angkor Wat for another sunrise with Melor

0700 hrs - Cycle off to Ta Phrom. Got lost. Ended in some kampong. Played with kids. Ate at their stall.

0730 hrs - Stomachache. Left Melor. Cycle off home.

0830 hrs - Breakfast at the hotel. Edit photos.

0915 hrs - Update Facebook.

1000 hrs - ZZzzzzzzz......

1145 hrs - Up for news, lunch by the roadside. Fried beef with vegetables, steam rice, glass of crushed ice cos i got my own mineral water - USD2.

1230 hrs - Chill out at Blue Pumpkin with Melor. Wrote my workshop notes, update Facebook, browse internet, catch up with Melor. Iced Cafe Mocha w Ice Cream, Nachos, Lemon Coconut - USD7.25

1530 hrs - Cycle home. Wrote to CONcert Cambodia for Voluntourism activity.

1600 hrs - ZZzzzzzz......

1730 hrs - Watched 911 movie on tele.

1900 hrs - Self Practice yoga, Standing Series

2000 hrs - Off to dinner at same place. Roast Chicken Rice, coke - USD2.

2020 hrs - Back in room, watch end of Adventureland on tele.

2055 hrs - Getting ready for bed, early morning tomorrow for last sunrise at Angkor and Bayon.

2 things i learned today. There are no movie theatres as the government bans a lot of stuff like bad words and kissing and smoking to be shown on screen. Even on tele, smoking would end up be shown as a blurred vision around the mouths of smokers. As for movies, there will be halls where chairs are arranged theatre like and facing the inside. Public can just sit and watch whatever is on screen, usually some Khmer or Thai movie. If you have no money, you can stand by theroad looking in to the screen. Kind of remind me in the late 70s when my sis used to take me to open air movie night. Tomorrow is the start of the Khmer New Year. Many balik kampong. No party on the streets. Sounds a little quiet or was it too early? There is a birthday party going on next door. The sound is deafening. Hope it doesn't last. Sounds like some massive and tacky disco playing over blasting euro trash house music. Urgh...

Day ELEVEN

Date - Wednesday, 11 April 2012

2200 hrs

The eleventh day was spent beautifully. At 0415 hrs, i was already on my way to Angkor Wat on pedals. I was the first one to arrive at the ticket booth at 0440 hrs. The guide said "5 minutes.". In ten minutes, tuktuks were pouring in and i quickly got in the queue and bought my 3-Day pass. And off i went and it seemed that i was the only one on a bike. The road was long and the sky was like looking up to a ceiling of diamonds! The moment i walked through the gates of Angkor, it stood almost startling me with awe of its majestic sight. Found a high spot on the old temple right across Angkor, laid down my big yellow african shawl and set my picnic basket.

Then the sky behind the temple started to change. An enchantingly beautiful hue of pink started to emerge from the horizon followed by purples and reds. This awe inspiring sky continued to display a series of kaleidoscope of colors. It was so captivating that i constantly found my jaw literally hanging by its hinges. Until a China tour group came in and made the whole experience infuriating with their inconsiderate shouting and yelling to each other at the top of their voices. I thought, don't this people shut up?! No they didn't. I took off.

After breakfast and a quick nap, i woke up at noon and head down to BluePumpkin. A sort of chill out place for foreigners. Nice cosy upper floor side cushioned seats where patrons can stretch out and enjoy their meals. Met up with a Singaporean girl, Diana, a really kewl and lovely girl whom i spent the next 3 hrs with just reminiscing about singapore and life in general. She also took me to her shop where she sells bags made out of recycled plastic. Gosh, she could give Freitag a run for their money, seriously!! It was fun, and the highlight was this US3 Khmer message that she took me to. WOW!! I'd pay US25-US30 for this in Bali!! Geez! Then we went back for another snooze before meeting up at Peace Cafe to do yoga. I was their earlier and had this quite expensive orange juice which cost me US2. Hmm... Whatever.

After Diana arrived, we set up in the yoga room, an overweight scruffy new yorker, David were waiting for students. Apologizing for his english and accent, so he should, he also emphasized on this gentle yoga that was to follow next. He was Anusara. Adjusted me all the way. Always fell into conflict with my own personal practice. Don't get me wrong, i kind of like the class and would have liked it more if he didn't think that i was trying to show off all the time when i all i did was only trying to adjust myself to the capacity of my own body. Oh brother,he started on philosophy and emphasized on not forcing. Hmm... Whatever, again. I WAS enjoying the class and this guy kept pulling me back. But nonetheless, i was glad that Diana, a novice found it enlightening.

All over, we made our way to Soria Moria hotel resto where everything went for US1!! Is this insane or what? All tapas style, and good!! Melor came shortly and joined us. Diana left me and Melor shortly after finishing her dinner and both of us stayed for another hour as we caught up on sooo many things. It was such a fruitful day and Melor and I gonna continue our temple visit starting with sunrise at Angkor. Again. My 9th time....

I came back to the hotel now. Happy news of the earthquake and the lifting of the Tsunami alert. So now i can sleep soundly dreaming of Angkor.... Nanite lovelies....

Day TEN

Date - Tuesday, 10 April 2012

0500 hrs

Couldnt sleep. Mr snuffles was the loudest, people fighting. Anyway, did have a chat with mr snuffles. He was from england and was a travel writer. Shared stories of KL and Singapore. Very interesting. He also gave a good tip on cambodia. So here i am, waiting for a cab to Hualamphong.

Bye Bangkok.. I love you!

0600 hrs - Train slowly leaves for Aranthyaprathet. Bought the tickets at BHT48 only. Throngs of locals rushed up the train carrying flower necklaces made from marigolds and jasmines. I was lucky i got an empty seat. Shortly, a little girl carrying loads of flowers sat on the opposite. I couldnt help to notice all the tired faces of these vendors carrying their goods, obviously made and prepared in the wee hours before the train leaves. Mid-way, scores of police came up and checked our passports, i was sad to see that they shooed some of the teenagers who were trying to get away not paying. If my body language is still not rusty, the teenagers were chased away with their goods because they didnt have enough money to pay. Then my heart broke when i saw the little girl trying to plead with the officers to let her stay. After scores of yelling and scolding, she was allowed to stay for a few more stops until another set of officers came up and forced her down, i was too afraid to defend her, wishing i could help her and her other 2 friends to stay. I didnt know where was her stop. After she left, the train took us another 30 minutes and 5 stops later. Gosh, i hope those poor kids didnt have much to go or i cannot imagine them walking their way all the way to aranthyaprathet. :( All the way i thought about the poor kids. How strict the police were (i guess in this case, they have to be), how blistering the weather was and how harsh the terrain was.

12.30 hrs - The moment i arrived at Aranthyaprathet, a tuk-tuk was already waiting for me. Bht100 and 15 minutes later, i arrived in Poipet, the border town between Thailand and Cambodia. Everyone, including the Thais were led to the visa control except for me who was the only Singaporean and the only one with no need of a visa. Thank god my government did something great. Not only i dont need a visa, i was given 30 days permit as oppose to the Thais who need a visa and only a 15 day stay. It took me 30 minutes to clear immigration and customs. Something so bizarre about this whole she-bang.

First of all, the Customs and Immigration point looked more like a busy weekend market, the clearance pathway reminded me of a run down temporary container with officers on both in and outside the checkpoint to check on your passports and the most weirdest of all, there is this huge hotel Tropicana and a massive Casino in BETWEEN the country's check point!!! What the hell??!! And NONE of the officers bothered to even peek at any bags!! Damn, shouldn't have left my stash...LOL!!!

Then a bunch of us was asked to wait for a shuttle bus that would take the whole lot to a transport terminal where we could book transport to our destinations. 10 minutes later, the bus came, a really friendly cambodian helper helped us to load our bags and the hot and dusty bus took us 30 minutes to the station.

1400 hrs - When we arrived, to the shock of some of us, the officer in charge said that there were only transport to Siem Reap, the rest had to turn back to Poipet and get transport there! GULLY, were some of us going to SR lucky!! A couple from South Africa called on me and another girl from England to share a taxi which would take us comfortably and in style, 150 km or 2 hrs into the city of Siem Reap. USD10 each and we arrived in Siem Reap 2 hours later.

1600 hrs - PHEW!!! Finally!! The taxi dropped the couple first then me at Im Malis. I could not be more happier. Then when i checked in, MY GOD, i didnt look at the voucher. The check in date was TOMORROW!!! But the nicest receptionist said, "no problem sir.". And next, i found myself lying down in my bed.

1719 hrs - Had my shower, ate my chips and now signing off to rest a bit and off to the old market later. I need my fried chilli fish!!!

1929 hrs - Back in my hotel room. The hunt for my fried fish was not successful. Instead i settled for a 2-piece sweet and sour fillet of mackerel. Not even close to what i was looking for. But what was successful was the purchase of a new sim card. At least i am happy that communication is up and running again.

Not surprised that i am absolutely knackered. Gonna clean up and hit the sack. Nanite people, i am sooooo happy to be back in Siem Reap. It all brings back memories when i was here with my Wizard and my 2 disciples.. Love it love it love it....muacks!!!

Day NINE

Date - Monday, 9 April 2012

0824 hrs

At 3.00am this morning, i was awaken by a tremor! I rolled over to see who was trying to open my door. And as the door was pushed open, i saw a silhoutte of what seemed to be like a 500-pound man. I rolled over thinking, oh well, it must be my new roommate. 5 minutes later, the tremors turned into earthquakes as Mr Snuffles snored away shaking the room everytime he did it. So there goes my sleepless night. I waited till first light, got up, showered, changed and went downstairs to chillout at breakfast table. And here i am, with my chicken porridge, running away from my roommate and wont come back till later. Haha... I am over reacting, i know and he could be the nicest guy. But for now, i am not staying in a room with Mr Snuffles, though i love Mr Snuffleupagas of sesame street. Kind and soft spoken however big and hairy.

Right, after watching The Queen and see how heartless the British monarchy is to its People's Princess, i am determine to search for a heartful Queen Sirikit, on foot. I thought if one is to find a country's love for her queen, it has to be in the countryside but being in bangkok, i had to mke do with the suburbs. So there i went, of on foot to the backstreets first. I set off on foot and to the alleys, then what i thought looked like a clean turn to the alleyway, turned out to be a street that in a remote sense looked like Chelsea, London and where it ended, my God, at The Shangri-La Hotel!! What a paradox! I kept on walking and stumble upon Bangrak Market where tons of. Nonsense were selling like in Patpong and Chatuchak but at an even lower price! Clearly it caters for the locals.

I finally arrived at Sathorn Pier where i decided to take a boat to the other side of the river, bangkok's flip side. I was dropped at a park where gymnast filled the place and everybody was seemed keen to pump up a muscle. I kept walking and a tuk-tuk was smiling at me, it work, i hopped on and asked him to just go. After about 10 minutes, i saw what become become the aight of the day, Wat Arun. Majestically stood right before me. I had to ask the tuk-tuk to stop. No matter where you turn at this temple, its pagoda would be staring at you and captivating your heart and you would not want to miss capturing it on camera. Equipped with just my iPad2 and a stunning light, i ended up taking 45 photos of it in a span of 30 minutes. Wat Arun may not stand grand compared to Angkor Wat but its intricacy in its murals, carvings are as delicate and incredibly beautiful as any temples i have ever seen. They left me breathless but i just had to go as it was getting dark and i was not sure of the walk back.

Leaving Wat Arun, i took a turn to what later became an interesting wrong turn. I found myself following the light as i shone stunningly at everything it touches. Walls, trees, pathways, shops, people, monks, all turned out like a picture perfect painting. As i walked further into my seemingly wrong way, i stumble upon this art studio coffee shop. Its a rustic cafe designed to look like a run down edgy art studio. It was the coolest thing. I will definitely come back to it as i was pretty stricken with panic not knowing where i was but i got what i wanted. The smiles of every single person i saw, proclaiming what my initial intention was, finding love of the queen's people. A huge photo of Queen Sirikit hangs endearingly over every bridge in this side of the city.

After an hour of walking, passing by The Royal Thai Naval post, i quit. Flagged down a taxi and head straight to Hualamphong to restart my walk. Got there, took the MRT to Silom and walked back home from there. In the end, i stopped by Jameson Pub, had a burger and a beer and now back at the hostel.

Oh what a day!! Gosh, i dont remember walking this far and this long. Nonetheless, at the end of the day, i am happy. Happy to know that people still love a monarchy's rule. Especially one that stands deep in the heart of its nation. What a monarch shows in this country is simply one thing, compassion... I love it. Nanite people, early tran leaves for Aranthyaprathet bund for Siem Reap! Can't wait!!